The Lodewijks Kerk (Church of St. Louis) was the chapel of a hospice founded
in the 15th century, the St. Jacobs Gasthuis. The St. Jacobs Broederschap
(Brotherhood of St. James) that operated it was made up of people who had
returned from a pilgrimage to Santiago in Spain. Their hospice was not a
hospital but probably served as a place to stay on the pilgrimage from
northern Europe to Santiago. Leiden, like many other cities, also had a
Jerusalem Chapel, maintained by citizens who had returned from a pilgrimage
to the Holy Land. There was a Roman Brotherhood as well. The present St.
Jacobsgasthuis Chapel was finished in 1538. Changes in devotional habits
combined with wars to interfere with pilgrimage routes; interest and practice
declined. The St. Jacobsgasthuis was transferred to the administrators of
poor relief in 1547. In 1566 the city used the space to store artworks
removed from the churches after the iconoclastic rioting. Then the chapel
became a guild hall. While the Pilgrims lived in Leiden, cloth was brought
here for inspection and quality control and to be sold.
Catholic religious life continued in Leiden after the Reformation. Monks
and nuns who had not already fled were not forced to leave. Instead they were
granted pensions and forbidden to take in new members. Leiden's 16 convents
and monasteries closed. Forbidden to have visible churches, Catholics
worshipped in "hidden" churches in attics of private houses. There were eight
by the end of the 17th century. The amount of toleration was variable, and at
times Catholics were oppressed with fines. (No doubt the Pilgrims were
offended that Catholics were tolerated at all.) Within the Catholic world,
there were Roman Catholics and "Old Catholics," a denomination formed when a
pope in 1702 secretly appointed the pastor of one of Leiden's hidden churches
to be Bishop of Utrecht, bypassing traditional rights of nomination that had
been granted to Dutch Catholic authorities in the middle ages.
Traditionalists remained true to their established privileges, resulting in a
continuation of the ancient Dutch Catholic church eventually (since 1723) no longer
subordinate to Rome and now in full communion with the Anglican churches. The
Old Catholic chapel on the Hooijgracht was taken down and a new church built
in 1925. The baroque altarpiece with its painting of the Adoration of the
Magi by Willem van Ingen is preserved with other fittings from this secret
house chapel in the Municipal Museum "De Lakenhal."
In 1807 a boat moored near the St. Jacobs Gasthuis, loaded with gunpowder,
exploded. Several square blocks of houses were destroyed. The chapel was on
the edge of the ruined area, which was visited the day after the explosion by
King Louis Napoleon, who participated in rescue efforts. At his insistence,
the chapel was restored to Roman Catholic use. In honor of the patron saint
of France and, of course, in honor of King Louis Napoleon, the chapel was
rededicated to St. Louis (Lodewijk in Dutch). This became the first Catholic
church in the predominantly Protestant north of The Netherlands that did not
have to be a "hidden" church but could openly face the street. It was a
symbolic step towards equal rights for Catholics, the 19th-century movement
known as Catholic "emancipation."
Soon, in the 1830's, Catholics again built visible churches, often attempting to locate
them close to the medieval church buildings whose congregations had become
Dutch Reformed. Catholic institutions, - churches, schools, newspapers, trade
unions, social clubs, business associations,- were part of a society that
developed along strictly separate denominational lines, called "columns."
Grocers, clothing stores, marching bands, lawyers, and sports teams, and
gymnastic clubs formed around Catholic or Protestant identification, with
several sorts of Protestant divisions as well. People within the various
groups lived functionally isolated from contact with members of other groups,
a situation that has broken down only recently in the face of growing
secularization.